Adire: The Timeless Nigerian Fabric Making A Monumental Surge

Adire resurgence.

I started taking more interest in African, specifically Nigerian fabrics around 2011 when I began traveling back to Nigeria more frequently to visit my ageing parents. What initially inspired me to start having clothing made with local fabrics was the introduction of modern, contemporary styles being made from these traditional fabrics.

Growing up back in Lagos, I wasn’t really comfortable wearing traditional fabrics when the occasion warranted me to. Being petite in stature, I didn’t feel I had the physique for outfits like Iro and Buba, so native styles didn’t appeal to me. However, when I saw designers using Ankara, Lace, and Adire fabrics to create modern European-inspired styles, that really caught my eye. It sparked my interest in these fabrics.

I began making and buying more clothes made with local fabrics whenever I went back home. This allows me to wear these beautiful textiles in the UK, and not just when visiting Nigeria.

Kudos to the artisans!  I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been stopped on the streets of london whilst wearing a vibrant Adire or Ankara design.

A brief history of the Adire fabric

Adire is a traditional Nigerian fabric that originates from the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria. The term “adire” means “tie and dye” in Yoruba, and it refers to a resist-dyed cloth produced using a variety of traditional techniques. These techniques include tying, folding, or stitching the fabric in specific patterns before dyeing it, usually with indigo or other natural dyes.

Adire fabrics are known for their intricate designs, patterns, and vibrant colors. The designs are often symbolic, with each pattern having cultural or personal significance. The fabric is commonly used to make clothing, especially traditional attire like buba and iro, and is appreciated both in Nigeria and internationally for its artistry and craftsmanship.

Adire fabric dates back to the early 19th century, although the exact origins of the technique are not precisely documented. The Yoruba people of Nigeria have been making adire cloth for generations, and it became particularly prominent in Abeokuta, a city in southwestern Nigeria, in the mid-1800s.

Abeokuta was a major centre for adire production, especially after the introduction of imported European cotton cloth, which became the primary material for the dyeing process. The use of indigo dye, a natural dye extracted from local plants, also played a significant role in the production of early adire fabrics. While the fabric’s roots are much older, its documented widespread use and recognition in Nigeria’s textile history dates back to the 19th century.

What lies behind the Adire Surgence

Adire has experienced a significant resurgence in Nigeria over the past decade, with a notable rise in popularity from the mid-2010s onward. This renewed interest in the fabric is driven by several factors:

1. Cultural Revival: As part of a broader movement to embrace African heritage and identity, many Nigerians have taken pride in showcasing traditional textiles like adire. This reflects a wider trend of celebrating African culture through fashion, art, and design.

2. Contemporary Fashion: Nigerian fashion designers have incorporated adire into modern clothing styles, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics. High-profile designers and celebrities wearing adire in Nigeria and abroad have contributed to its increased visibility.

3. Global Appeal: Adire’s unique designs have attracted international attention, with the fabric being featured in global fashion shows, exhibitions, and in collaborations with Western designers. This global exposure has made it trendy both within and outside Nigeria.

4. Support for Local Craftsmanship: A growing interest in sustainable and ethical fashion has also contributed to the rise of adire. The fabric is often handmade using traditional dyeing techniques, making it appealing to consumers who value artisanal craftsmanship and slow fashion.

By the late 2010s and into the 2020s, adire became more than just a fabric for traditional attire. It started appearing in everyday wear, home decor, accessories, and even luxury fashion items. The resurgence of adire has turned it into a symbol of cultural pride, creativity, and heritage, making it popular both within Nigeria and globally.

Common fabrics types used for adire prints

Adire prints can be applied to a variety of fabrics, but traditionally, they were made on cotton cloth. Today, however, several types of fabrics are used for adire prints, each providing a unique texture and finish to the designs. Here are the common fabric types used for adire:

1. Cotton: This is the most traditional and widely used fabric for adire. Cotton absorbs dyes well, making it ideal for creating vibrant and intricate patterns.

2. Silk: For a more luxurious feel, silk is sometimes used for adire prints. The smooth texture of silk allows for more delicate patterns and gives a refined look.

3. Rayon: This synthetic fabric mimics the softness of silk but is more affordable. It’s commonly used for adire in contemporary fashion due to its drape and comfort.

4. Linen: Linen is another natural fabric used in adire production. It has a more textured surface compared to cotton, giving adire prints a distinct, earthy look.

5. Chiffon: Lightweight and sheer, chiffon is used for adire prints when a softer, flowy look is desired, especially in fashion garments like scarves, wraps, and dresses.

6. Polyester: While not as traditional as cotton or silk, polyester can be used for adire, particularly in mass-produced or modern fashion items. It offers durability but doesn’t absorb dyes as well as natural fabrics.

These fabrics provide a wide range of options for designers and artisans to experiment with different textures and styles in the creation of adire garments and accessories.

How to choose good quality adire fabrics

When choosing good quality Adire fabric, there are several key factors to look out for to ensure that you’re getting a well-made and long-lasting material. Here’s what to consider:

1. Examine the Fabric Base

• Type of Fabric: Traditional Adire is usually made on cotton, which absorbs dye well and is durable. Ensure the fabric base is strong, breathable, and feels substantial. Higher-quality Adire may also be found on silk or linen. Avoid synthetic materials like polyester if you’re seeking traditional, long-lasting options.

• Thickness: Good quality Adire should have a balanced weight — neither too thin nor overly heavy for its type. Thin, flimsy cotton might not last long, while overly stiff fabric may be difficult to wear or use comfortably.

2. Check the Dye Quality

• Vibrancy of Colors: The dye on high-quality Adire fabric should be vibrant, rich, and evenly distributed across the fabric. Faded or dull colors can indicate poor dyeing techniques or low-quality dyes.

• No Bleeding: Rub a slightly damp cloth across a small section of the fabric. If the dye transfers or bleeds, it suggests poor quality, and the color may run during washing.

• Pattern Clarity: Look closely at the Adire patterns. High-quality fabrics will have clear, well-defined patterns. Smudged or blurry designs can indicate rushed or careless dyeing processes.

3. Feel the Texture

• Smooth and Even Surface: A good Adire fabric should feel smooth to the touch, especially if made from cotton or silk. If it feels rough, scratchy, or uneven, it may be of lower quality.

• Even Dye Absorption: Run your hands over the fabric to check if the dye has been absorbed uniformly. Uneven dye absorption might indicate inconsistency in the dyeing process, which can affect the fabric’s overall look and longevity.

4. Inspect the Stitching and Finish

• Edges and Finishing: Check the edges of the fabric to see if they are neatly finished. Unfinished or fraying edges can lead to faster wear and tear.

• Resist Areas: On some Adire fabrics, wax or starch is used to resist the dye in certain areas, creating patterns. High-quality resist areas should be sharp and clean, without bleeding or smudging into the dyed parts.

5. Stretch and Durability

• Check for Stretching: If the fabric stretches unnaturally, especially when it shouldn’t (like cotton), this could indicate weak fibers or poor quality. The fabric should maintain its shape and resist excessive stretching.

• Resilience: Good Adire fabric will be durable and won’t show signs of wear easily. Tugging lightly on a corner can help check for signs of fraying or weakness in the weave.

6. Check the Reputation of the Seller

• Artisanship: Look for Adire fabric made by reputable artisans or companies known for traditional craftsmanship. Handmade Adire is usually of better quality than mass-produced versions.

• Ethical Sourcing: Ensure the fabric has been sourced ethically, supporting the local artisans who have passed down the Adire technique through generations.

By paying attention to these aspects, you’ll be able to select high-quality fabric that is both beautiful and durable.

If you would like details of where to get any of the styles or fabrics on this post, leave me a message below on the blog. 

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